Oh, how time flies. John and I are still putzing around the upper Chesapeake Bay in Halcyon. We never stopped sailing, I just stopped writing about it. Time to get back to it.
Since I last wrote we chartered a sailboat in the British Virgin Islands. It was a fantastic week full of firsts: Our first sail outside of the Chesapeake; our first time operating a sailboat other than Halcyon; our first time in the BVI. It was everything the Sunsail brochures promised and more. I’ll write about the “more” later. For now I’m just playing catch up.
Another fun adventure happened last summer when I helped a friend deliver her Hunter 36 from Key Biscayne, Florida to Saint Simons Island, Georgia. Another fantastic week. There were four of us on board: the boat’s owner and another couple. The owner needed help sailing the Hunter to her broker in Georgia before taking delivery of her new, semi-custom boat. We spent time in the Gulf Stream, on the Intracoastal Waterway, in calm seas and in one rather large storm. Fortunately, we just made it to a marina for the “huge” storm. Thankfully my first storm in the ocean was only “large” (and I was passed out from being seasick so couldn’t fully appreciate it). The others have far more sailing experience so I saw the week as an adventure with training. I’m sure I got much more out of it than they did as I was the novice.
My only disappointment on that trip was not swimming in the Stream. After it was mentioned casually that a bull shark might have passed under the boat (based on the depth sounder reading going from maxed out at 300+ feet to 30 feet), I put that goal on indefinite hold. We were sailing in over a thousand feet of water. Thirty feet was waaaay too close.
In between all that John and I had fun sailing Halcyon, discovering new anchorages on the Bay, meeting new people, and discovering St. Augustine, Florida. Again, more about all that later.
Where are we now (besides being sick of the cold)?
It began with the concept of “paying it forward.” Someone who I consider a sailing mentor and who continues to give me a lot of wonderfully useful advice based on his experience lives this every day. Basically, it’s do something good for someone and in return that someone does something good for someone else as “payment” for whatever it was that you did. Looking at it that way, John and I have a LOT of payments to make, so, I volunteer John’s services a lot. This is how he got stuck working at the top of a mast last summer for six…solid…hours.
Last fall we attended a wedding of a fellow sailor where we met a woman who bought a Morgan Out Island 416 ketch. She sailed it from North Carolina to where she is currently located on the C&D Canal. The boat is solid but needs work. Her plan is to live aboard with her Third Ager* parents and cruise so she wants to make sure it is as good as she can get it. She mentioned that her electrical system suffers from Previous Owner-itis. Seeing an opportunity I offered to ask John if he would help her troubleshoot. It worked out well. She’s a race car mechanic and product specialist for Chevy trucks and has a solid grasp of what is involved. In other words, John isn’t rewiring Fluffy’s boat while she teeters around on stilettos. We’ve made a couple of trips to her boat and she and John do their thing in the bilge and engine compartment while I putter around the marina looking at other boats, watching wildlife, reading in the cockpit, and waiting for them to finish so we can go to the awesome restaurant at the marina. Everyone’s happy.
During our last working visit to the boat, she had another friend helping her. Roy is retired from the British Navy and full of stories. While he worked I stayed out of the way and listened. Every now and then he’d pop up and look around. After about an hour I recognized the bemused “What the heck did I do with that X?” look on his face and helped him backtrack so we could find whatever it was that was missing. That was my contribution.
When my sundowner alarm sounded on my iPhone, Roy very generously decided to treat us to his “extra special” rum. This rum isn’t sold in the U.S. and he brought it back from his last trip to England. Because sundowners followed the chocolate wine tasting and I hadn’t had lunch, well, I’ll blame the rest on that.
The four of us chatted about sailing, the history of grog, and other nautical stuff while we sipped and sampled. I mentioned a vague plan to some day sail to Ascension Island, St. Helena. I don’t remember the conversation verbatim but the gist was “Why stop there? Go to Tristan da Cunha!” And Roy gave us a brief history of the islands.
I never heard of this island. My original plan had been to sail to Ascension Island, stop at the pub, sail home. Roy upped the ante. I pulled out my iPhone and did a quick search. Calling itself “the remotest island” Tristan da Cunha’s economy is centered around fishing, the sale of postage stamps, and woolens knitted by its “elite knitting team.” The population is roughly 300 people. There are probably more sheep than people. They print and offer subscriptions to their bi-annual 40-page newsletter. How cool is that??
My limited early research says that the island was originally discovered by a Portuguese navigator who passed by on his way from Brazil to Cape of Good Hope. He couldn’t find a place to land so he kept going. Later the British set up there when they thought the French were going to attempt to rescue Napoleon from St. Helena. The next person who trundled along was a Corporal William Glass from Scotland. His family settled on the island and he named the main town Edinburgh of the Seven Seas. Today the islanders are a mix of English, American, Italian, Dutch and African. One website says about the language: “English is the native tongue, albeit a slightly strange, preserved Georgian dialect laced with a few early Americanisms.” I’m envisioning something akin to what we’d hear in Appalachia where Old English is still spoken due to their isolation.
So. That’s where we are today. John’s on board with the idea. He spent some time watching Youtube videos about the island, which surprised me. He knows more about the history than I do at this point.
This isn’t happening any time soon but it is our first concrete, long-distance goal. Our first “voyage.” There are a zillion things that have to fall into place and a zillion more to do before we sail into Edinburgh of the Seven Seas harbor. In the meantime, I’ve started adding tasks to a project plan (someone said to me “Nothing says fun like a Gantt chart.”), re-researching the Next Boat based on using it for this trip, and having fun with it all. Oh – and convincing Boat Fluff that she does want to meet the elite knitting team of Tristan Da Cunha.
In the meantime, watch this space for the official unveiling of our “raiding” flag and more adventures on Halcyonn.
*Thanks to NPR I learned that older adults are no longer called “Senior Citizens.” The new term is “Third Agers.” My membership dollars at work.